By Tatjana Montik and Mary Ellen Chatwin
Photos: T. Montik
Thursday, October 7
Exploring the upper Caucasus Mountain regions is the chance of a lifetime. It is rich in culture and tradition, for example Racha was home to the first settlement of Jewish Georgians, over 2000 years ago, and the oldest synagogue in Georgia is found in Oni, the main city of Racha. Local wine growers even produce kosher wines, and indeed Racha is known for its rich variety of wines. Ethnic groups from various areas of the Caucasus make their home there, sometimes in very challenging conditions, both ecological and political (in 1992 part of Racha with a majority of ethnic Ossetians pulled away to become part of “South Ossetia”, today an “autonomous enclave”).
A journalist living in Georgia, Tatjana Montik, recently visited Upper Racha, and exclaimed that the wide variety of wines, the extraordinary mountains and panoramic views inspired her to seek out the unusual people who live there. She said, “They are modest, polite, and hard-working, and although they seem a bit reserved in the beginning, once they open their hearts, you will want to stay!”
That’s exactly what one Polish citizen from Poznan did—Malgorzata (who is called Gosiya by the locals) discovered the village of Ghebi in Upper Racha, and after visiting it several times, decided to settle there five years ago. Tatjana visited her recently, and saw how the fortunes of local people changed with Malgorzata’s arrival too—as a doctor, she decided to risk all and spend even the long winter season in the difficult conditions of this remote village. In her 50s now, Malgorzata had observed first-hand in Poland, how children learn resilience in spite of the family challenges they face early on. Additionally, during her medical studies Malgorzata learned to love horses, as they were part of the therapy used to help persons recovering from addiction.
For the last five years she has remained in Ghebi to help local villagers in the most difficult circumstances. She has remained there struggling to create hope in an isolated village, a magic space year around, where guests from Georgia and abroad can come and discover a unique experience of shared beauty. She owns five beautiful horses and has renovated a guesthouse. Even under rough conditions, in a region similar to Svaneti, she remains bold, hard-working and good-humoured.
During the high season, before the heavy snows set in, Gosiya welcomes tourists for an adventure holiday in Ghebi. She cooks Georgian and Polish meals, bakes fresh bread and takes her guests hiking or on horseback to experience nature first-hand. As she loves the natural environment, and knows every trail in the local forests, visitors say their experiences have been unforgettable.
The view from the balcony is so breath-taking it is easy to understand her daring decision to exchange the comfort of an easy, European city-life for the wild beauty of the high Caucasus. In the guesthouse, the adventure continues...Rather than in plush salons guests are greeted by the cosy smell of fresh wood, as Gosiya is a self-made carpenter. She made almost all the furniture in the house! During the long winters she is busy too...she builds and renovates the house, goes hiking with her dog, cares for the horses and looks after the other villagers if they become ill.
She remains dedicated to her first profession, a trained medical doctor, and is revered by all those she helps.
Like many people working in tourism, during the pandemic Gosiya’s life was upended, and this summer was especially disastrous. Sadly, a close friend, who had become like a younger brother to her, who often travelled from Poland to participate in her mountain life, recently died in a sports adventure accident in Poland. At the same time that this occurred, the impact of the pandemic set in. Her business down-turned and very few visitors travelled to Upper Racha. The low temperatures and heavy rains this year destroyed the crucial harvests of high mountain hay that she and other villagers depended on to feed their livestock. Suddenly, Malgorzata realised she no longer had enough food for her horses.
The harsh winter season has already set in, and soon the snow will keep any outside supplies from reaching the village. Gosiya spends sleepless nights trying to think of ways to feed her hungry animals. Other villagers have come to realize that her concern for animals was part of her commitment to heal all creatures, and today the attitudes towards animals in the village have begun to change. Horses, cows, dogs—all are companions in a difficult environment, and Gosiya has helped other villagers to become aware of this. With the help of Tatjana, she is urgently looking to find a solution. Horses are one of the most fragile animals when it comes to needing regular food—they cannot go for days without eating like wild creatures. Understandably, having observed the importance of constant care in her profession, Gosiya would like to find foster parents for her horses. She cannot bear to see animals suffer and perhaps die, and decided to stand up to this challenge and save them.
She has set up an emergency fund to procure food supplies, and offers a free stay at her guest house to donors or to those who foster a horse for the winter – including excursions and delicious food. A supply of hay for the long winter and five sacks of oats is needed for each of her five horses. Today the price of hay is GEL 1500 and five sacks of oats is GEL 250 for each horse. This amounts to approximately 425 Euro for hay and 120 Euro for oats, (approximately $490 and $140). Even a more modest contribution is very welcome.
For those who wish to donate, please see following accounts at the Bank of Georgia. Pay to the account (in Euro, GEL or USD) of: MALGORZATA KALINA TURKOT-JANIK
